The Disaster of Duran Lantink

Even those living under a rock will recognize the name Gaultier, a fashion house associated with the bold and provocative, home to Madonna’s bullet bra and the first skirts for men in couture. It has a history of purposeful mischief, producing work that demands thought, often through bold and shocking elements. Duran Lantink is perhaps the destined soulmate of Gaultier, an audacious rebel of the fashion world who famously dressed a male model in a woman’s bare breast prosthesis last season. He was new on the scene, riding a wave of recognition and fame from his Paris Fashion Week 2025 collection. He was, by all means and measures, ready for the roguery of Gaultier.

Or so the world thought.

I present to you October 5, 2025, when Lantink had the distinct pleasure of creating perhaps the most disastrous debut collection unveiling in the modern history of fashion, or at the very least, in the legacy of Gaultier. Though this appraisal might seem unduly harsh, the runway offered little to argue otherwise.

It started with the bodysuit, or perhaps more accurately, a suit of a body. A full bodysuit had been crudely printed with the image of a naked man, equipped with body hair, two red nipples, and a little innie belly button. The appendage was present but was thankfully covered by a pair of diagonally cut white shorts—the small mercies of Lantink. The bodysuit, in all its hairy glory, garnered the strong shock value Lantink was presumably searching for, but fell painfully flat. There was nothing beyond the shock, nothing intentional or elegant as Gaultier is known for. After all, what social commentary can one really get from a cheaply printed piece parading as couture? If that has you thinking, don’t bother; there is nothing to be gained from Lantink’s little publicity stunt, aside from the disgrace of a famed fashion house.

The rest of the show followed in a similar style, pieces that were assembled from what appeared to be a used life jacket, some Jazzercise-esque leotards cut drastically high, and a one-legged pair of leggings. It was incoherent, similar only in the devastating lack of cohesion.

The audience did not stand in applause for Lantink, another aspect of Gaultier’s embarrassment. The house has often been a provocative institution, tackling nudity and fashion with gusto and grace, a pair that has been much respected and even revered by those in the fashion industry. However, there was no grace for Lantink, who came out waving at a stupefied crowd that clapped robotically at his appearance.

It is my sincere hope that the world will see more of Lantink. He is an expert in provocation, that much is clear. I cannot say I am keen on another naked body print, but it is my belief that Lantink can find the grace and elegance Gaultier is so well known for. He is staying on for the house, at least for now. He will have another opportunity to prove himself in the coming season and will definitely be a designer to watch, for better or for worse.